FLAGMAN & FELLOWSHIP: August 2009

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Thom Browne's Rules for Proper Suit Usage

Rule #1: "Only the middle button on the jacket should be buttoned when you are wearing it closed."

Rule #2: "The pocket square in the breast pocket should be just peeking out (no more than 1/8 of an inch)."

Rule #3: "The last button on the cuff of the jacket should be left unbuttoned."

Rule #4: "The button-down collar of the white oxford shirt should remain unbuttoned."

Rule #5: "Please do not iron the oxford shirts after washing."

Rule #6: "The trousers should be worn high-waisted so that the cuff of the trouser falls above the ankle."

Rule #7: "The neckties have been pretied, but please remember to keep the knot very tight when tying the necktie."

Rule #8: "The necktie should be worn long, with the tip of the tie tucked into the waist of the trousers."

Rule #9: "The tie bar should be clipped so that it falls halfway between the collar of your shirt and the waistband of the trousers."

Rule #10: "The shoes should be worn without socks."

Read more: http://www.esquire.com/style/fashion-story/properusage1007#ixzz0Oed7qwKl

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Flusser on the Ivy League style

- Norfolk jacket arrives in US in 1918
- separate jackets appears in 1923
- sack suits appear in 1920s
- natural shoulder adopted by Ivy Leaguers in the 1920s
- Ivy League taking fashion cues from England; Anglomania at fever pitch in 1920s/30s
- button down shirts popularized in 1920s/30s
- Oxford Bag pants popular in UK in 1925-26
- half of US men wear pinned collars in mid 1930s
- odd waiscoats popular 1928-1960s; gone by WWII among general public
- striped shetlands and madras jackets appear in late 1940s
- chinos appear in 1945-early 1950s
- Ivy League "Look" in 1950s
- centre vent becomes favoured in Ivy League in 1950s
- odd trousers lost pleats and cuffs in mid 1950s; narrow cut
- no socks become popular in 1950s
- duffle coats popular in 1950s

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=3353&p=19

Friday, August 7, 2009

Why RRL?

The Double RL clothing line, named after Ralph Lauren's ranch in Ridgway, CO...made it's North American debut in May of 1993. The line was sold exclusively through a handfull of Ralph Lauren stores, selected boutiques, and Neiman Marcus.

Vintage is at the core of Ralph Lauren's design philosophy that things get better with age. Double RL, his vintage-inspired collection, is the culmination of his search to find and create clothing that is authentic, individual and one of a kind.

Existing outside of the fashion mainstream, Double RL has inspired a cult-like following. The unique pieces reflect a ruggedness and an edgy attitude that appeals to an individualistic sense of style and integrity.

The clothing line included vintage time-worn leather jackets, handwoven heirloom quality sweaters, hand-tooled leather belts, and rough hewn denim inspired by the cowboy heritage of the American west. Double RL's designers were heavily influenced by the military uniform styles of the 1940s, early American pioneers, adventurers from by-gone era's, and classic collegiate wardrobe staples. The clothing line also once payed homage to the vintage surf styles of the 1960's.

No other American designer has captured the true essence of American clothing and style better than Ralph Lauren...