Sunday, August 30, 2009
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Thom Browne's Rules for Proper Suit Usage
Rule #2: "The pocket square in the breast pocket should be just peeking out (no more than 1/8 of an inch)."
Rule #3: "The last button on the cuff of the jacket should be left unbuttoned."
Rule #4: "The button-down collar of the white oxford shirt should remain unbuttoned."
Rule #5: "Please do not iron the oxford shirts after washing."
Rule #6: "The trousers should be worn high-waisted so that the cuff of the trouser falls above the ankle."
Rule #7: "The neckties have been pretied, but please remember to keep the knot very tight when tying the necktie."
Rule #8: "The necktie should be worn long, with the tip of the tie tucked into the waist of the trousers."
Rule #9: "The tie bar should be clipped so that it falls halfway between the collar of your shirt and the waistband of the trousers."
Rule #10: "The shoes should be worn without socks."
Read more: http://www.esquire.com/style/fashion-story/properusage1007#ixzz0Oed7qwKl
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Flusser on the Ivy League style
- Norfolk jacket arrives in US in 1918
- separate jackets appears in 1923
- sack suits appear in 1920s
- natural shoulder adopted by Ivy Leaguers in the 1920s
- Ivy League taking fashion cues from England; Anglomania at fever pitch in 1920s/30s
- button down shirts popularized in 1920s/30s
- Oxford Bag pants popular in UK in 1925-26
- half of US men wear pinned collars in mid 1930s
- odd waiscoats popular 1928-1960s; gone by WWII among general public
- striped shetlands and madras jackets appear in late 1940s
- chinos appear in 1945-early 1950s
- Ivy League "Look" in 1950s
- centre vent becomes favoured in Ivy League in 1950s
- odd trousers lost pleats and cuffs in mid 1950s; narrow cut
- no socks become popular in 1950s
- duffle coats popular in 1950s
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=3353&p=19
